How to care for combination/oily skin, according to a dermatologist

If you have oily or combination/oily skin this is the article you need to read to learn how to take care of it correctly and to avoid one of the common ills experienced by this type of skin (especially oily skin) due to the fear of its owners of generating even more sebum: dehydration. Oily skin is quite common among the population and is not the exclusive property of adolescence. Having oily skin does not mean having acne, but obviously this skin has a greater propensity to experience the appearance of pimples and comedones (according to data from Filorga, one in two women between the ages of 20 and 40 have oily or acne-prone skin). . For all this, it is necessary to develop a clear and concise road map to learn how to care for this skin prototype. We do it with the help of Dr. Elena Martínez, dermatologist at Clínica Pilar de Frutos.

What is it like to have oily skin?

Oily skin is characterized by enlarged pores and shine all over the face (not just in the T-zone, since in that case we would be talking about a mixed skin). They may be prone to blackheads and pimples – the incidence of acne will increase by 60% in the next 10 years – and an uneven texture.

Cleansing: with sebum-regulating and soothing active ingredients

Cleansing is the basis of care for any type of skin, but in the case of oily skin it is necessary to do so with suitable products. “Cleansers intended for oily, combination, or acne-prone skin should be used. These types of products contain sebum regulators in their composition that will help reduce or, at least, regulate fat production. In addition, they usually include compounds with a more soothing action to avoid further dryness or irritation when the skin has more inflammatory acne lesions”, explains Dr. Martínez. That is why it is very common for this type of cleanser to contain salicylic acid in its composition, since it helps to clean the pore in depth.

Should you use a water-based cleansing mousse or gel?

It's not necessary, although it is more common for these types of products for oily skin to be rinsed off with water. Of course, it is essential, as the expert explains, that a deep clean is achieved without producing extreme drying since it could lead to compensatory hyperseborrhea (the well-known rebound effect of oily skin that is washed with astringent soap bars). . It is recommended to finish cleaning with a tonic, better if it contains salicylic acid when you have the dirtiest pore.

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Cleansing milk and toner: under review

Although using cleansing milk could be an option, the expert affirms that this product "is more for drier skin." Regarding the toner, she insists that its purpose is to regulate the pH of this type of skin and achieve deep pore cleaning, “but it is not a product intended for general cleaning. A toner will never replace a cleansing product, such as a gel or micellar water”, he explains.

What products can oily skin use?

The key is that they are oil-free and non-comedogenic. "These products will be free of oils/lipids, that is, they are not greasy." The texture of cosmetics is also important. They must be fluid: emulsions, serums, gels, cremi-gel or light creams, since they do not add fat.

How to choose a moisturizer

Usually, it is best to use light creams or gel textures. Even, Dr. Martínez points out, moisturizing serums with hyaluronic acid can be used instead of the cream. Another alternative is creams with glycolic acid since they are a good alternative to minimize acne marks.

In the morning and at night

In the morning it is advisable to use a sebum-regulating serum and a light water-based moisturizer and at night an active ingredient designed to improve acne and/or production of fat: retinol, glycolic acid or salicylic acid.

How to avoid dehydration in oily skin

The fear of adding excess oil leads many people not to use moisturizer. It is a mistake as that leads to dehydration. The key, as Dr. Martínez points out, is to use products that provide water without providing fat. “That is to say, that they provide the skin with the water it lacks and help to ensure that the water produced by itself is not lost. Here the star product is hyaluronic acid”, he recommends.

Cosmetic layering. Can you use several products at the same time on oily skin?

Overlapping serums to treat different problems –so practiced by oriental women– always raises more questions for oily skin. In principle, if light textures are used for oily skin, several products can be used at the same time since they should not clog the pore. Of course, if you want to use a more repairing ointment or balm, the expert advises applying it last and at night.

How often should you exfoliate oily skin?

You shouldn't overuse exfoliation, but it will be more frequent for oily skin. The expert advises a nightly exfoliation 1 or 2 nights a week if you have active inflammatory acne (always with products prescribed by dermatologists) and 3-4 nights a week for oily skin without acne. Sulfur masks (it is an active sebum regulator) can also be used one day a week. Normally, the most suitable products for exfoliation and peeling usually contain salicylic acid for skin with marked pore and glycolic acid when there are spots or acne marks.

What specific treatments can be carried out in the cabin?

Cleaning can be carried out with manual extraction or diamond tip – it is essential to put yourself in good hands since these are procedures that require experience and expertise not to damage the skin. Dr. Martínez advises that they be done every 15 days if there is a lot of comedogenic component. If not, every 3 months is enough. Good results are also obtained with dermalinfusion treatments in cases of acne (a combination of dermabrasion, extraction and infusion of serums).

Is it true that oily skin ages later?

Dr. Martínez talks about less marked aging. “But this does not mean that oily skin does not age. Wrinkles become less obvious, they are later and less marked thanks to the lipids/fats that we naturally have in this type of skin and that contribute to making it more elastic. But they may have a greater tendency to flaccidity.”